Canine Spay FAQ

Surgical sterilization of the female dog, commonly referred to as spaying, is one of the most significant aspects of female dog care an owner can provide. The benefits to the dog FAR outweigh simply not having puppies, though as pet over-populations looms as a societal problem it is important to be part of the solution rather than part of the problem.

Spaying involves removal of the uterus and ovaries. It is a major surgery but a commonly performed one, ideally performed while a female dog is still in puppyhood, prior to her first heat cycle.

WHY ALL FEMALE DOGS SHOULD BE SPAYED

A female dog spayed before her first heat will have a near zero chance of developing mammary cancer.

After the first heat, this incidence climbs to 7% and after the second heat the risk is 25% (one in four!). It is easy to see that an early spay can completely prevent what is frequently a very difficult and potentially fatal form of cancer.

But is it too late if a dog is already past her second heat? No, in fact spaying is important even in female dogs who already have obvious tumors. This is because many mammary tumors are stimulated by estrogens; removing the ovaries, the source of estrogens, will help retard tumor spread.

Spaying removes both the uterus and both ovaries and is crucial in the prevention as well as the treatment of mammary cancer.

Pyometra Prevention

Pyometra is the life-threatening infection of the uterus that generally occurs in middle-aged to older female dogs in the six weeks following heat. The hormone progesterone, which primes the uterus for potential pregnancy, does so by causing proliferation of the blood-filled uterine lining and suppressing uterine immune function. It is thus easy during heat for bacteria in the vagina to ascend to the uterus and cause infection. The uterus with pyometra swells dramatically and is filled with pus, bacteria, dying tissue, and toxins. Without treatment, the dog is expected to die. Despite her serious medical state, she must be spayed quickly if her life is to be saved.

• This is an extremely common disease of unspayed female dogs.
• Without treatment the dog will die.
• Treatment is expensive.
• Treatment involves surgery in a potentially unstable patient.
• Spaying prevents the whole thing.

The older unspayed female dog has an irregular heat cycle. There is no end of cycling comparable to human menopause. If you still decide against spaying, be familiar with the signs of pyometra LINK, which include loss of appetite, lethargy, vomiting, excessive thirst, marked vaginal discharge.

Simple Convenience
The female dog comes into heat every 8 months or so. There is a bloody vaginal discharge and local male dogs are attracted. Often there is an offensive odor. All of this Disappears With Spaying.

It’s Not Just a Good Idea; in Los Angeles it’s the Law

In April 2008, spaying of female dogs became mandatory in the city of Los Angeles. It is already mandatory for Culver City, Marina del Rey, and unincorporated areas of Los Angeles County. Exceptions include law enforcement dogs, dogs currently in competition training, service dogs and dogs with a medical exemption. Fines begin at $100. The City came to this resolution largely because of the huge expenses associated with its overcrowded shelter system and its euthanasia rate of approximately 4000 unwanted dogs and cats PER MONTH. This problem comes down to one of population control; education has been inadequate to solve the problem as has simply charging $100 vs $10 to license unsterilized dogs. Spaying provides irreplaceable health benefits to the pet, convenience to the pet owner, benefit to the community, and it is now legally required.

Now That we Know Why it is a Good Idea to Spay, What Exactly Happens?

It is important that the patient has not been fed in at least 8 hours. Anesthetic medications commonly induce nausea and vomiting can be dangerous in a sedated patient (vomit can be inhaled/aspirated leading to pneumonia).

A preoperative evaluation is performed; blood work is recommended for older females and may be recommended as a normal preanesthetic consideration. An intravenous catheter may be placed to facilitate the administration of anesthetic drugs, for any fluid administration, and for use in case of emergency. This necessitates shaving a small patch of skin on one of the legs.

A tranquilizer or other pre-anesthetic medication may be administered to ease the induction of anesthesia.

A medication is given intravenously to induce sleep. This medication is called an induction agent and lasts only long enough to establish the maintenance of anesthesia by the inhalant anesthetic (gas). Once the dog is asleep, a tube is placed in her throat to ensure that a clear airway is maintained through out the procedure.

Sometimes a cough is noted for a couple of days after surgery. This may have been caused by the tube in the throat. Such coughs only last a couple of days; anything that persists longer should be re-evaluated.

The tube is hooked up to a machine that delivers a specific concentration of inhalant gas mixed in 100% oxygen. An anesthesia technician is assigned to the monitoring of this pet so that the concentration of inhalant gas can be changed, color, heart rate, respiration and other parameters are followed.

In the surgical prep area, the abdomen is shaved and scrubbed. The bladder is emptied and the patient is moved to a surgical suite, where she is draped with surgical cloths or papers to isolate the area where surgery will take place.

An incision is made on the midline of the abdomen, and the three points where the ovaries and uterus attaches are tied off and cut. The abdomen is checked for bleeding and two or three layers of stitches are placed to close the incision.

It is helpful to know that should the skin stitches come out, there are two layers below holding everything closed. Sometimes skin stitches are not placed but if they are, you will need to return in 10 to 14 days to have them removed.

The anesthesia technician continues monitoring until the dog wakes up and coughs out the throat tube.

The patient is kept in an observation room until she is able to walk.

My hospital feels strongly that a night in the hospital is important to an uneventful recovery. This night in the hospital is analogous to strict bed rest, just what you would expect to be needed after a major abdominal surgery. This night also allows for proper administration of pain medication for a longer time period as well as a post-operative check up with the doctor the morning after surgery.

What to Expect at Home

Most spay patients go home the next day as if nothing had happened, although some will need pain medication for a few days.

Some nausea may occur in the first couple of days after surgery and it would not be unusual for the dog to refuse food for a day or two after surgery.

As noted above, a cough may persist for a couple of days as a result of the throat tube. This should not persist longer than a couple of days.

Dogs who show a propensity to lick their stitches will need an Elizabethan or “E” collar to restrict access to the stitches. This is not very comfortable for the dog but it must be used strictly until the stitches are out and the incision is healed.

Activity should be restricted during the week following surgery. Excessive activity can lead to swelling or fluid accumulation under the incision. If a fluid pocket does form, it should resolve on its own after a few weeks. If a fluid pocket forms and drains liquid from the incision, the dog should be re-checked with the veterinarian.

What about Behavioral Changes?

The female dog’s reproductive tract is dormant for most of the year. It only activates for the three-week period of heat. This means that from a behavioral stand point, the female dog acts spayed most of the time. This said, there has been a documented slowing of metabolism after spays and it may be necessarily to use a reduced calorie food in an adult dog. Check with your veterinarian about nutritional recommendations.

By Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP
Educational Director, VeterinaryPartner.com
Date Reviewed/Revised: 06/09/2008
Copyright 2008 – 2009 by the Veterinary Information Network, Inc. All rights reserved.

Just as life with a blind dog can be a unique circumstance, life with a deaf dog can also be a new experience for many owners, in fact, under certain circumstances people do not even realize they have a deaf puppy or that their dog has lost his hearing blaming their behaviour on simple disobedience. Hearing loss is something which can and should be tested by your vet and is another reason why regular vet visits are necessary in maintaining your dog’s health.

So, what should you know about deaf dogs? Deaf dogs are not different from any other dog’s in temperament, they judge by vibrations in the flooring rather than sound and they can be taught with hand signals or vibrations from a vibrating collar. Training deaf dogs is similar to training blind dogs – you need to be resourceful in how you teach but understand that just because your dog cannot hear you does not mean he is not capable of learning. Deaf dog owners often stamp or clap their hands or even flash lights to get their deaf dog’s attention and some prefer to utilize the vibrating collar, but simply put, a deaf dog can be an obedient dog when you take the time to find alternative methods of training. Training a deaf dog should always begin with teaching your dog to visually connect with you frequently for cues on his behaviour, this is done like any other behaviour – with plenty of praise and treats help too! You can also utilize American Sign Language to teach your deaf dog commands!

One thing you should keep in mind, much like owners of blind dogs, is that your deaf dog may be more easily startled than a hearing dog IF you make an effort not to make vibrations as you move which is pretty difficult to do but not impossible. It is courtesy to make some noise as you approach your deaf dog so that he knows you are approaching – look at it as though you are wearing headphones and someone sneaks up on you rather than announcing their presence…it’s unpleasant to be startled.

Certain dogs are more likely to be deaf than others; however, that does not mean that you should avoid these dogs because deaf dogs make great pets too! By rule of thumb elderly dogs are generally more hard of hearing as are all white dogs with blue eyes such as some American Bulldogs as skin pigmentation and deafness hold a genetic link.

If you suspect that your puppy or your elderly dog is losing his hearing take him to your vet for testing so that you can tailor your training and life to him!

Cold Tail AKA Limber tail syndrome is something many dog owners know nothing about until they notice it in their own dog. Due to the nature of cold tail it is most often seen in hunting dogs and not all vets may be familiar with it; however, it does not exclusively occur in hunting dogs and can be seen in pets and various breeds.

So what is cold tail? Cold tail is characterized by a dog’s tail hanging limply from their back end, the tail does not hang directly down, however, it sticks out horizontally from your dog’s back end a few inches and then drops directly down. Your dog will not be able to lift his tail when he has cold tail, while it is not serious, cold tail can be extremely sensitive and you may notice your dog showing symptoms of discomfort. Cold tail resolves itself within a few days to a few weeks and there is little to nothing that can be done to improve it although some people believe that warm wraps at the base of the tail can help.

What causes cold tail? No one really knows what causes cold tail; however, some people believe it is related to over exhertion, damage to the tail due to excessive wagging or hitting it against something when being wagged, cold water or even nutrition. I can tell you that Jet’s “fur-uncle” got cold tail from jumping in to a swimming pool when the water was too cold, it happened almost immediately when he got out of the water and resolved itself in a few days.

Throughout your lifetime as a dog owner you are guaranteed to hear the words “puppy mill” whether you realize your dog is a puppy mill dog or whether you hear about the raiding or closing down of one on the evening news. The unfortunate reality is that puppy mills exist and as long as they remain supported by people frequenting them to purchase puppies they will remain in business.

What Are Puppy Mills? Puppy mills are mass breeding operations that focus on producing puppies for profit rather than for sound health and temperament. Puppy mills are almost always substandard structures with substandard conditions that result in the breeding of sick puppies who fail to thrive and frequently develop health problems later in life.

Who Goes To Puppy Mills? It would seem obvious that if only you knew it was a puppy mill you would not frequent them; however, puppy mills sell their dogs through individuals and to commercial pet stores so no one ever gets to see the actual puppy mill itself. Many of the commercially owned pet stores purchase their dogs from puppy mills because they get the dogs at a discount and many individuals are tricked in to purchasing puppy mill puppies when they purchase from individuals at local events or through newspaper ads.

How Do I Know If I Have A Puppy Mill Dog? Once you have welcomed your dog in to your home delving in to this can of worms can be painful and sometimes unnecessary. There is only one true way to prove that your pup is a puppy mill dog and that is to track the individual you purchase from or to pay a surprise visit to the “kennel” address if you have one available. Keep in mind; however, that these individuals rarely care about their animals and upon being confronted there is no telling what their reaction may be. When I contacted Jet’s “backyard breeder” (an individual who sells puppies for profit without considering the health of the dogs – thing puppy mill on a smaller scale) to inform them that before he was a year old he was displaying signs of hip dysplasia they told me they were “unaware of the problem” in their bitch; however, if I brought him back to them they would replace him with another dog. The thought of returning my boy was sickening especially knowing what they would do to him and I refused this offer adamantly, this confused them until they realized that perhaps I was seeking money for vet bills and then they began to treat me as hostile, I told them I was seeking nothing other than for them to stop breeding their bitch and was told that they would “look in to it.”

How Do I Avoid A Puppy Mill Dog? The fact of the matter is that puppy mill dogs deserve all the love in the world and there is nothing wrong with having one; however, the effort is to shut down the funding of these puppy mills by refusing to purchase their dogs. Many puppy mill dogs from mills that are raided are put up for adoption through your local humane society and most times their story will tell you of their plight. Adopting a puppy mill dog can be one of the most rewarding experiences you will ever have as they are eternally grateful for being free from their past life; however, if you are afraid of the potential health problems down the road and are looking for a healthy dog you will need to research qualified and professional breeders who can guarantee the health of their dogs – be prepared to pay for this dog more than twice what you would for a backyard breeder / puppy mill dog – you really do “get what you pay for” when it comes to the quality of a breeding. Personally, if you are looking for a pet as opposed to a show dog or a professional breeding dog (please don’t add to the canine population unless you are qualified to do so!) then I recommend talking to your local rescue organizations or your local humane society and they can help match you with the perfect dog for your needs. Rescuing a dog is not only rewarding because you saved a dog from sure peril but it is also rewarding because rescue dogs somehow seem to understand that they have been given a second chance.

Learn more about puppy mills at StopPuppyMills.Org

By Joe Bartges
DVM
University of Tennessee
(Archive)

When you take your hunting dog into the field this autumn, you may be unknowingly exposing it to a deadly fungus that resides in the very ground your pooch is sniffing in order to trail game.

Blastomycosis is a fungal disease that can affect many organ systems in your dog. The disease is caused by the fungus, Blastomyces dermatitidis, which lives in the soil. Dogs most commonly become infected by inhaling the organism. This means that dogs that spend a lot of time sniffing the ground in an area where the organism lives are at risk for infection.

Geographically, areas with moist soil and standing waters, such as the Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio River valleys, the Mid-Atlantic States, and the Canadian provinces of Quebec, Manitoba, and Ontario, have a high incidence of Blastomycosis. This includes areas along the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers and the Southeast.

Although Blastomycosis can affect any dog of any age, breed, and gender, male dogs are more frequently infected than female dogs, and a greater percentage of female dogs survive treatment.

And, obviously, because hunting dogs spend more time sniffing potentially infected ground than other dogs, they are at a greater risk for contacting Blastomycosis.

Symptoms

The lungs are usually the first organ system to become infected, and the organism spreads to other organ systems including the skin, eyes, bones, lymph nodes, subcutaneous tissues, nose, brain, and testes.

Clinical signs are vague, but usually include a fever. A cough, often dry to begin with, is present, and may have been present for months.

The organism can spread to the skin where it causes draining tracts or to the eyes where it can cause inflammation and blindness.

Usually, the lymph nodes are enlarged, and affected dogs often experience weight loss to the point of emaciation. As mentioned, many other organ systems can be involved.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of Blastomycosis is done best by finding the organism in aspirates of lymph nodes, in fluid from draining tracts, or in fluid collected from the lungs.

Chest x-rays often show a “fluffy snowstorm” appearance to the lungs, which are the fungal organisms and associated inflammation. Although blood tests are available, they are not as good or as accurate as finding the organism. In fact, many dogs with full-blown infection have negative blood tests.

Because the disease is caused by a fungus, the fever and clinical signs do not clear with antibiotic treatment. This may result in an infected dog being given steroids to decrease the fever, which, in turn, causes wider spread of the organism throughout the body.

Treatment

Treatment of Blastomycosis involves using drugs that kill the fungal organism. Several drugs are available, but the safest and easiest treatment is to use an antifungal drug called itraconazole. This is a newer drug that has fewer side effects than older treatments such as ketoconazole or amphotericin-B.

It is given by mouth one to two times a day for a few months. The most common adverse effect of itraconazole treatment is anorexia associated with liver toxicity.

Although the chance of curing a dog is good, some dogs die despite aggressive treatment and supportive care. Dogs with brain involvement usually die, but occasionally such a dog can be successfully treated.

The severity of lung disease may worsen in the first 2 to 3 days of treatment, and is due to an inflammatory response to killing of the organisms in the lungs. Death usually results from respiratory failure and occurs in about one-half of the dogs with severe lung disease during the first week of treatment.

Currently, there is no specific prevention for Blastomycosis except awareness of the disease in your area and prompt medical attention if clinical signs develop. You should remember that the organism lives in the soil and that your dog picked up the infection from the soil; therefore, your dog may be exposed again.

About Joe Bartges: Joe Bartges is a professor of internal medicine and nutrition and The Acree Chair of Small Animal Research at The University of Tennessee.

He is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine and the American College of Veterinary Nutrition.